Fuji X-Pro 1 – Some tips to fix the quirks – By Armando Chiu

Hey Steve!

 I got my X-Pro 1 yesterday, and after some frustration and complaints, I am starting to like the XP1 more by working around some of the quirks.
Here are some workarounds to the quirks that I compiled. Some from discussions with others and some via testing.
Option 1 (best one in my opinion): Turn the “power save mode” to “ON” under Setup menu 2, and set camera to OVF only. You lose the histogram, but aperture chatter or rattle-snaking is totally gone. You will still get the crazy back and forth from the lens and one or so “click.” But no more chattering! And it will likely save battery too.
Option 2 Assign DOF preview to FN. Each time you press FN, it locks the aperture blades in place and stops the chatter. However, as soon as you touch the shutter button (even half press), the chattering will resume, and you will need to push FN again. At the very least, you can stop the chatter when carrying the camera around while the camera is turned on.
– Continuous AF – It is THE best and most reliable AF mode. It’s generally a tiny bit faster than Single Servo AF (b/c it pre-focuses) and it will lock on close to macro ranges (without turning macro on). Better yet though, it will even lock on some contrast-less areas like the wall in my bedroom. Or my white comforter. And yes, even at low light.
– Manual Focus and then use the AEL – You can auto focus on macro ranges (without turning macro on), but the AF does become super slow. But it will lock! It is nowhere as good as C-AF to lock on contrast-less areas.
– Single Servo AF – Unfortunately, the least reliable. Difficult to lock on at contrast-less areas. Will not lock on macro ranges. Faster AF than using the MF+AEL. Generally on par or a tiny bit slower than C-AF.
All my tests were done with the 35/1.4, with the AF Lamp turned OFF. The tests are subjective as I didn’t time them with a stopwatch. But I’m very fairly confident that C-AF is the way to go if reliability is a priority. It is also on the X100. C-AF will probably drain the battery a whole lot quicker though.
Well, here they are. Maybe you can share this with the readers as a public service announcement. I’ll keep fiddling with the XP1, and will let you know if I come across other workarounds as we wait (and hope) for some quick and reliable fixes from Fuji.
Take care and keep up the good work!
-Armando (a.k.a. “Armanius”)


  1. I bought x100 and x1. X1 is great but need some tunings.
    It is difficult to use with 90mm. But when you get use to it, that’s great.
    Image quality is present. Same as my Canon Eos 5 + 85 1.2 !
    Fuji made fantastic evolution ! Wish the others could follow….

  2. If the aperture blades are moving, the camera is metering (although it may not be for picture taking purposes- see below). Two “workarounds” you could try are: 1) use a lens cap (how radical, I never bother with these unless storing the camera), or at least cover the lens with you palm? 2) most cameras have a setting to adjust the time to meter off, adjust this (if present) to the shortest interval. I don’t know if Fuji has this but it could certainly add it in a firmware update. Turning the camera off is always a good one, but only if startup is quick and easy. Of course, maybe this is a good thing, moving aperture blades won’t get sticky a la x100!

    You might notice with any mirrorless camera some similar behaviour that I believe is more to protect the exposed sensor. ie turn the camera up to look through the lens and the blades will close down. These sensors have a dye based rgb filter, and like all dyes may be subject to fading. How much, who knows but it seems the engineers are aware of the potential. In this case the metering is continuous but not affected by the metering timer mentioned above. (turning the camera off disables this, but exposes the sensor to more light because the lens is parked open aperture. Maybe the lens cap is good for something afterall.)

    Anyone with an xp pro notice if the chatterring behaves as described above?

  3. “I got my X-Pro 1 yesterday, and after some frustration and complaints, I am starting to like the XP1 more by working around some of the quirks.”
    I thought people buy new camera based on strengths and not to find and emphasize on alleged flaws! Bought yesterday, but the honeymoon lasted a few hours only. But there is hope, as work arounds were found within minutes. How convincing is that, for a USD 1700 camera body. So either the flaws are not real or the camera is garbage. Sounds cynic, doesn’t it, but when you honestly think of it……

    • Hi Radar. That’s the option 2 noted in the original post. It does stop all chatter while the camera is not in use, but it is turned on. But as soon as the shutter is pressed or half-pressed, the camera will start metering the scene again to provide optimum exposure for the live view feed, and the chatter recommences in bright light conditions. So to stop the chatter, it is necessary to press the FN button again. It works fine to stop chatter, except that you lose the ability to assign a more useful function to the FN button such as ISO (which is the function that I assign to the FN button).

  4. I reckon that the chatter may be more bothersome to some than others; it may be something I could tolerate. Really, though, I am interested in how the X Pro-1 functions with Leica and other M-mount lenses, the apertures of which will not be chattering, as they are set manually. Slow auto-focus, too, is irrelevant when using manually-focused lenses.

  5. Can’t the user work in full manual mode?
    Setting the aperture at say F5.6 or whatever F-stop needed should surely stop the camera continually opening and stopping down the aperture blades????

    Also, isn’t the chatter stressing the hell out of the aperture blades? Years of use in days of operation?

    This sounds a pretty serious flaw that will definitely put many prospective buyers off.

    The joy of keeping it simple, looking through a viewfinder that you can actually see the subject and not a heads-up display of every function, histogram, level, auto-focus frame, shutter speed, aperture etc.
    It is totally nuts to me and totally unnecessary- pure overkill.

    • No. Even in manual exposure, the camera still adjusts for brightness so that what the user sees on the EVF/LCD is the optimal exposure. I believe most mirror-less cameras do this, but some are just more subtle than others. So I wouldn’t call it a flaw.

      I agree that there is a joy in simplicity.

      • ah, ok thanks for the reply.

        I have seen wonderful pictures from this camera but the negatives and overkill on functions puts me off.
        Still aiming for M8 and trying hard to not buy any of the other choices before i’m there cash wise. It is hard though.

        • You are welcome Rich. If your heart has been clamoring for a M8, I would definitely wait on the M8. The experience is just so different between using a XPro1 vs. a rangefinder. To me, there’s something enjoyable about turning a focus ring and feeling the clicks from mechanical aperture ring, as opposed to a constant aperture blade chatter!! 🙂 I was shooting the XPro1 this past weekend, and the chattering didn’t bother me as much anymore — partly because I was used to it, and partly because some of the noises around me drowned out the chatter.

  6. So somebody receives an expensive, sophisticated, demanding camera system and literally within ours identifies quirks and warts and develops tips to fix them. Shouldn’t Fuji hire all these guys and employ them into an in-house “who finds the most quirks fastest” score card performance measured team?
    How about using camera and lenses first, at least for a couple of weeks, taking as many shots as possible and under any condition thinkable before reporting back. Tell us what works, where the Fuji excels, why it should be bought over other makes etc. I for sure, would consider such posts much more credible. I buy cameras for what they can do and not for what they aren’t. And depending on a system’s strengths and importance of those to my shooting, I tolerate quirks. Eventually, every camera requires some compromising.
    Just my 2 cents and Sunday morning rant.

    • You are absolutely right. I just have a suspicion that Fuji simply have no answer to those quirks. I.e. the don’t have the technology or don’t know how to create state of the art AF like Nikon and others. Otherwise wouldn’t they have implemented it?

      • My post was meant differently, more aimed against the wanna be experts, who seem to buy cameras to find their flaws rather than to discover their strengths and share them with the public. It’s the old story of the half full versus half empty glass. The www seems to provide a great stage for the latter.

        • I see what you mean. I just think it is a shame that this so called pro-camera which has such nice output is not better prepared by the manufacturer.

          It seems to me that they are rushing it too much to score high profits instead of thinking more of creating a quality product.

          To me the sluggish AF and other quirks is simply not tolerable for a camera at this price level.

  7. I sooooo want one of these. With the zooms coming next year it could be the perfect system, except for the chatter. As a wedding photographer I must have quiet gear. I tried the PL251.4 (4/3 version with adaptor) on my EP2 and it was too loud to be used in a church. The noise was non stop. It’s one of the reasons behind getting an M9 in the first place. I can see wht many people see it as a non issue but for me…….. Such a shame.

    Good news is I can put the money toward a Nokt 35mm 1.2. That should be unbelievable on my NEX7.


  8. Its a bit like having a car that has to have the wheels taken off every night, or when one stops, because they will only stay round when they go round. Many would say ‘Why did you buy that’? or alternative words.

  9. “I got my X-Pro 1 yesterday, and after some frustration and complaints, I am starting to like the XP1…”
    Yeah, great, that sounds like an advanced user.

    • You can hear this on your E-P2 if you attach the Oly 17mm 2.8 or the Panasonic 25 1.4. It is the aperture blades opening and closing rapidly as the camera adjusts them to the light.

      • Thanks for that info. Actually, I bought the Lumix 20mm 1.7 on one of your recommendations. No chatter unless my hearing is going. It’s been a great combination. I’ve been waiting for the fuji only because I want a bit more camera in my hands with the larger sensor. Most of may life has been Canon A2 and 1Ds Markll…….before you suggest it, I can’t afford the Leica.
        Great Web site, almost as much fun as taking pictures.

  10. Agree. Have the camera now almost three weeks, and have not problem with AF. Like with every camera, you have to spend some time getting to know her. Definitely more than a day. 😉

    • Ive had issues with AF in low light or night shooting, like I mentioned. In daytime and good light it is plenty fast enough. Go out at night in the city and shoot street and see how it goes 🙂 Most cameras will have a hard time with this though, the NEX-7 would. Only the E-P3, V1 and a handful of others would do good in the AF dept, but they all have smaller sensors. It is a give and take. I value usability over almost anything because if I can use a camera that is 100% accurate, fast, has no quirks and gives me good IQ I would prefer it over a camera that has the best IQ but has quirks and issues. If I can not bond with a camera, I won’t want to use it. The only cameras I have ever bonded with have been the Oly E-P3, Nikon V1 and the Leica M9. 🙂 All fantastic in ALL areas (minus the V1’s slightly harsh but sharp high ISO rendering)

  11. Here is one possible solution I found to slow start up. Every time I downloaded my images from SD card on my Mac I notices the slow start up time. If you format the card after inserting in the camera the start up time issue is gone!!! Looks to be one possible work around.

    • Oh I do that, but that 1st time you put the card in be prepared to wait for 20-30 seconds. Guess like someone else said, lock the card before putting it in the mac. That should solve the issue. Still, why is the Fuji the ONLY camera out today that has this issue? It should not be there. period.

      • Without any facts whatsoever in front of me, I suspect this has to do with the library files that get written to the card on a Mac – these are hidden files so usually wouldn’t see them at all, but are for things like spotlight etc. The Fuji’s seem to try and ‘read’ these files or try to figure out what they are, before finally ignoring them. My guess is that Adobe camera RAW seems to write even more files to the card, which prolongs startup further. I use Aperture and definitely find after import it is a little slower to start than before importing (X100) but nothing like the issues you have Steve using PS. This would also be why ‘locking’ the card for write access resolves this issue – OS X simply can’t write any of these library files to the card.

        So having said that, there may be a workaround for this by telling Spotlight not to search (and thus make catalogue files) for the SD card?

    • I don’t understand the problem with start-up time, I don’t have any problem with that on my X-Pro1. When I turn it on is ready in 1 sec. also after I have downloaded pictures to Aperture?

    • Thanx a million times. I’ve never had slow startup, until yesterday. Did format the card and it was gone. Cheers!

  12. I got my X-pro1 too. I went and did a comparative photo shoot with my Canon 5D mark II. The image quality of X-pro1 is stellar. In fact it beats the 5D in terms of details and sharpness. I am amazed with 35mm lens. Even at full wide open at 1.4 gives tremendous sharpness. The quirks are terrible. The start up time is so bad I almost wanted to return it. Looking at image quality I am thinking to keep it. Anyone has fix for start up times?

  13. Well said! I got my XPro few days back when in transit in Singapore, going to Nepal. The camera is lovely and I enjoy it vey much, I wish is was less noisy, but I can live with it. I also have a X100 which I sold now and the Fuji mage quality is fantastic, AF is much is much better than my Leica X1 and I consider it a very stron point that Fuji update their firmware on a regular basis – it took forever for Leica to get out ver. 2.0 to address several issues on X1 – so I don’t think they deserve all the glamour talk. Also if you compare x1 to Fuji X100 – actually Fuji is much better value and to me a better camera with better features giving better results. I’m sure if Leica would bring out an XPro like product, it would be a design stealler at 100% premium with equal IQ and performance.

    I look forward to another great of shooting with my XPro

  14. The interesting thing to me about most of the anti XPro comments is that it seems they usualy come from people that haven’t actually used the camera. I’ve just finished my first full day photo walk with it through the streets of Charleston and all I can say is I absolutely love this camera, quirks and all. Would I prefer the lens not to chatter? Of course. Is it a deal breaker for me? Nope. I’ve also found the AF speed to be a non-issue. It’s plenty fast for my needs. It’s certainly much faster then I can manually focus with either a rangefinder or a split prism SLR.

    All I know is that was the most enjoyable day out with a camera I’ve had in a long long time. I haven’t felt this way about any digital cameras I’ve owned (and that’s a pretty long list covering virtually every brand). I can’t wait to take it out again tomorrow.

    • My thoughts exactly about AF speed. I do wish it was lighting fast like a V1. But it is still faster than I can manually focus the M9.

  15. On the X10 turning on Power Saving not only reduces the refresh rate of the screen, but also of the AF system. Specifically tracking AF performance is reduced, which is the reason why Power Saving is automatically turned off when “Face Detection” is used.

    Check the manual of the X-Pro1 about Face Detection, maybe it mentions the same thing, maybe not.

  16. Since this is about updates and workarounds, I have a question. If I wait a month or two to buy an X100, will the latest firmware already be installed?
    I’ve been using an EOS40d for three years and I’ve never had to touch it, so I don’t have any real experience with this kind of thing. It all sounds a little mysterious.
    Thanks for any ideas.

    • I actually never “installed” any firmware upgrades until I got a M9 about 2-3 years ago. Figures! Now I’m constantly installing firmware upgrades — particularly when I had the first generation NEX and now with the Fuji’s. 🙂

      If you wait a month or two, you might get one with the latest firmware. But even if you don’t, it’s really easy to do it. Generally speaking, you save the firmware onto a SD card, load it into the camera, and turn the camera on while holding down a designated button. A screen pops up asking if you want to do the upgrade, and you click “ok” or “yes.” For whatever reasons, some manufacturers want users to connect the camera to the computer, run some type of software first, and etc, etc, etc.

  17. What I find both confounding is that after all these years, no one seems to have found a MANUAL electronic focusing system that is as quick, easy to use, and accurate as an optical rangefinder. Is it really that difficult? Apparently so. As it is, I have no interest in any camera that “features” slower and/or less accurate autofocus than I could achieve manually and yet has no attractive manual option. Even if I’m clever enough to find ways to overcome such basic limitations, why should I have to?

    • “I have no interest in any camera that “features” slower and/or less accurate autofocus than I could achieve manually and yet has no attractive manual option. Even if I’m clever enough to find ways to overcome such basic limitations, why should I have to?”

      I concur. And it is a major factor for my reluctance to seriously consider this camera. Fuji can do better.

      • To be clear, in this review I said I can focus my M9 faster – but I was talking about low light or night shooting. The Fuji simply does not AF in low or night light, for example, street. If you want to shoot on the street after dusk you must use MF if you want to capture anything quickly. To me, that is not a big deal as that is how I would shoot anyway. But in comparison, I was able to shoot street in low light with blazing AF with the E-P3. The Fuji can not do this, at least not with the 35 1.4

        • I don’t think Fuji ever intended to copy any of the assisted toys other brand are manufacturing. I just don’t get why, didn’t they put a simili telemeter (even electronic or whatever) in the X-pro 1 and make it a real rangefinder. They totally could have added that to the OVF. I totally love the XP1, but they could have gone even further in the boosted-back-to-basis kinda camera and fully forget about the AF at all!

        • Hi Steve,

          now you’ve totally confused me. In review I do not rember that you have said that this camera is not for street photography, but I find it under your answer on my post where Stan agreed with me about how great camera is, and we should start using it (me, when it comes in my hands, I hope this week). It was clearly mentioned that camera is for portraits… landscape… but not for the street. I guess you would like to answer for many of us here, andI you don’t have time enough to explain your thinking, because this answer above is what I have seen on your pictures…. and this is camera for street photography. I think you should realy give us 2 review, one only about XP1 and one comparing it with M9 as I have mentioned somewhere. In that case you would be more specific and will say that it might not be for street photography in real low light condition, but still fairly usable. I use cameras most of the time for travel and street photography in good light conditions, so this might realy be camera for me, and you did confuse me.

          Thank you for all again, will wait for your next words about Fuji X-Pro 1, I think you owe us one 🙂

          Take care!

          • In my review I stated it is GREAT for street IF you use manual zone focusing, NOT AF. If the lights get low, as in dusk/evening you will miss many shots trying to use AF. In other words, you can not raise, AF and capture the “moment”. Too slow. But if you use zone focusing you can.

          • Interesting. I’ve been shooting with the X-Pro1 for one week now, almost two. I use it for street photography a lot, with the AF, also at night, and it’s fine. I don’t really recognize your comment. Zone focusing or stopping down will always be better when you do street photography though, with any camera. I used my M8 in the same way. To me to be able to have autofocus available is sheer luxury. The rest is timing.

    • Let me see, 1.21 included fixes for bugs that were introduced from update 1.20, right. So not all firmware updates are good.

      • So not correcting the problem – no matter how/why it occured – would have been better, right?

        How’s the weather on Planet Twisted Logic?

        • No, what I am saying is that firmware updates are not always good. Sometimes they introduce new problems which were not present in the first place.

          Weather here is fine. How is it on Planet Everything Fuji does is Brilliant?

  18. If Canon release a camera without autofocus they would be…
    I love my X100 and love my X-Pro1 more, its not a camera for everybody but for some its great.
    And I don’t use it for sports, then I use my 7d 🙂

  19. I don’t quite understand the AF fuss in low light? I can focus on almost anything my 5d2 can in the same lighting conditions. Might take a little longer but it still achieves focus. And these are in dim lim situations I normally would NEVER shoot in anyway.

    Auto focus is fine people. Can if be faster? HECK YES. But it’s not missing focus any more than my dslr and the same situations.

    Good lawd!

  20. I was playing around with power save mode on yesterday to get rid of the aperture chattering, and I found it significantly reduce the AF speed of the camera even in bright light. It seems like the smear takes extra time to stop down the aperture then focus then open back up in that mode. I’d rather live with the chatter than even slower AF

    • Yeah, unfortunately, the AF speed does slow down with the “power save mode” on. But frankly, the AF speed is not that slow as some people keep saying it is (with the power save mode “off”).

      • I just wonder if the people who are really hammering the AF focus speed are the ones with Power Save “On.” Because with it off, I’m more than happy with the AF speed. Of course, my last autofocus camera was the 20D so I’m probably just not used to super fast af 🙂 Ignorance is bliss!

        • Like you said, it’s all a matter of perspective. Comparing the XPro1 to the EP2, the XPro1 feels like a speed demon. Comparing it with the EP3, not so much!

          The power save is “off” by default. So my guess is that most people do have it “off.”

    • What are the implications of this chatter issue from the standpoint of excessive wear and tear on your fast lenses? Should I worry?

      • I believe most if not all mirrorless cameras do this, but most are more discrete than the chatter on the XPro1, with the exception of a PL25/1.4 lens on an Olympus Pen body. I probably wouldn’t worry about wear and tear. Hopefully someone more knowledgable will chime in.

  21. ..And I thought there was the odd quirk on m9… . Latest one I found is that first picture taken near a pool/ body of water seem to crash/freeze m9. Must be a sudden humidity change thing…

    • Like they did when they released a similar bug filled x100? I’m convinced Fuji doesn’t care if it;’s got bugs or not. They know it will sell anyway.

      • Objection, Your Honour! This tactic never seems to hurt Microsoft.

        I wonder how many thousands of errors they will be ‘upgrading’ when Win 8 goes retail – as the great unwashed hordes get to be unofficial Win-beta release candidate testers ….

        • As a Mac user of 15 years all I can to this is that at least Microsoft provide a public beta program, rather than release largely untested OS’s on their paying public in order to beta test for them.

  22. What I wonder is how this is acceptable of a $2000 camera body. If a Nikon or canon was released like this people would go nuts. But since its fuji it’s acceptabe to need a page full of workarounds.

    • I fully agree. And imagine a company like Leica would release such a series of bugs – they would be slaughtered!

        • Roy, I was about to mention that, glad someone else picked up on it also.. My X1 is on Adorama’s used page for 1299, and it is very well used, scrapped, dinged, and the paint is worn off the buttons.. I see no reason to complain about the price of the Xpro1, the X1 with grip, ever-ready case, and spare battery tipped 2500, and with no viewfinder, and sloooowwww focus, I still loved it.. The joy of owning different systems for different reasons is why I work so hard… (well sorta.. gotta have a house…) 😉

          • Olympus EP1/EPM1 suffers it too with the Panasonic 20mm lens (though I don’t know exactly what it is on the Fuji since I don’t have one, I assume it’s the constant opening and closing of the aperture on the lens making a soft clicking sound continuously). It’s certainly not unique to the Fuji.

      • Forgetting about the M8 and 8.2 with their need to put an IR cut filter onto every lens you own unless you want magenta looking fabrics ?

        • Is this really true? I thought it was something people just said to put Leica down. I don’t believe Leica would release such a product.

          • Look for the updated feature list for the M8.2. It’s real and recognized by Leica as a problem.

          • I have a M8.
            I need to put a UV/IR filter cut on each of my lenses.
            I don’t find it to be a problem since I need to put a UV filter on any of my lenses though just to protect it…si it doesn’t matter much to me. It also give that cool red effect on the lens lol…

            About the cracked sensor on M9…seems there is a lot of talking but just few problems which can happen occasionaly.
            Ah…yes…any company, Leica or not, has to face quality problem in digital era 😀

            That’s why I need to switch to film and stop that electrononical craziness soon.

    • Canon and Nikon, as well as Leica (with the M’s at least) aren’t mirrorless cameras with a fulltime liveview.

      A M9 doens’t need to open and close the iris in responce to changing light levels, just as a DSLR doesn’t.

      Look at the X1, or any m4/3 cameras, they do the same “chatter”. Wasn’t really know til fast lenses came out, like the 25mm f1.4 and what do you know, does the same thing on my EP3, as did my X1 and my X100

      Now it would be nice if when using the OVF they could turn off the sensor somehow, and make the camera act like a true DSLR or RF, but probably the meterign etc is from the sensor feed,so I doubt its possible.

      Seems all these people always are clamoring for mirrorless, yet they forgot some of the real advantages and reasons behind a DSLR or RF in the first place.

      • it kinda does that when you disable “quick turn on” and you enable “power saving”. The OVF turns almost inactive, shows only framelines and switch on when you half press. You get an average of 700-900 shots so I’m not sure the sensor is on all the time. On the other hand, if it’s not the case, the idea is good enough to be dug by fuji guys, maybe a firmware update ?

        And I think people should stop compare, you wanna cannon, go for it! same for leica… it’s different cranes in the same toy box.

      • “reasons behind a DSLR or RF in the first place”
        I think you make up reasons after an event. I don’t believe the thought of this at all on a DSLR let alone designed a DSLR to make it not happen. The same with a RF as its all shut until its used.

    • I’m not sure where you got that the XPro1’s quirks are “acceptable.” If they were acceptable, folks wouldn’t be discussing these issues. Yes, there are some people who will give all sorts of reasons why chattering or slow AF or peeling leatherette or front focusing or dirty sensors or lack of IR filters are okay. But I’m sure there are also people who already returned their XPro1’s, because they found the quirks to be unacceptable. I’m still on the fence about it, and will wait a little bit to see if Fuji responds. And of course it irks me that Fuji didn’t address some of these issues prior to release to the public.

      • Ever heard the old retail mantra – someone gets good service they tell their friends and family. If they get bad service …. they tell EVERYONE. One isolated incident, or perceived flaw, and everyone knows about it.

        I don’t think Fuji have a greater degree of ‘problem’ cameras than any other manufacturer – their products are just so hot at the moment, any potential problem is seized upon to fuel flames.

        Back in the days of (pre-internet) film cameras, Fuji made robust MF cameras that made Nikons look like kiddie toys in comparison. Fuji know how to make cameras. As a trained engineer I can see no great fault in the design of my X100 (unlike many other brands) I would hardly have purchased it if it had. No evident skimping, shortcuts or lack of care in it’s construction …. nor any great flaw in it’s operation.

        I think the crop of Fuji bashers has more to do with internet troll culture than any quality control issue. One person, who once heard a rumor, of someone else, whose brother – or was it aunt/uncle/cousin/niece/partner/boss whatever – had a problem with something or other, starts up rumors that EVERYBODY has issues ….

        Even before it’s release, dozens of forums, chat-rooms, etc. kept featuring the news that the XPro1 body was “as large as a 5D MKII” – when it clearly was not. Hordes of internet idiots kept repeating it verbatim – despite nil experience of the camera and in direct contradiction of known fact. OK – sanity break over – y’all get back to criticizing …..

        • You know, here’s my two cents on this. I have no money invested in a Fuji anything; I’m just sitting here with a modest current m4/3 camera system plus Contax G, waiting for the dust to settle around several issues I’ve written & inquired about here which will determine my personal buying & selling strategy over the course of the next year. I’m looking forward to getting ALL the information I can on the Olympus OM-D after its official USA release, as you might expect, and this is the first place I look for those “real world” results and opinions. I’m not married to m4/3, so my interest in this topic is more than a passing one. I, for one, am exceedingly grateful to those enthusiastic early adopters who take some risks and get the information I need to know out there in such rapid fashion; and to Steve for his thoughtful, practical reviews.

          I’m well aware of that marketing dictum, having been, among other things, advertising manager for a segment leading corporation. Somehow, you seem to have deflected the object lesson there away from Fuji and pointed it as a barb in the direction of the consumers! I can tell you that I am more than a little troubled by what I’m seeing here about the X-Pro 1’s “quirks”: $1699++ is a lot of money to me (and crazy money to the average consumer who just wants to take nice photos of family, friends, and vacation spots — and that includes people with lots of cash). This isn’t about being “fair” to Fuji or chastising anyone for their complaints. This is about getting a heads-up out there… and some discussion going regarding those issues which will prove to “stick” as objectively factual impediments to doing what just about all commentors here know an inspiring, up-to-date, high ticket camera tool really ought to do.

          While I do agree that rumor-mongering can have a momentum of its own, I’d judge this site to be one where the unreasonableness is kept pretty much in check; so I feel that here is not really the appropriate place to be leveling such a strong criticism on that count. Let’s face it, the bulk of electronic stuff sold to consumers consists of mediocrities and rubbish. This is an enthusiasts’ forum, where you ought to expect a higher standard of scrutiny to prevail. For another perspective, see ‘Consumer Reports’. I simply can’t agree there’s any crop of Fuji bashers here. On balance, I’m liking what I see: One man’s viewpoint…

          • Fred – not trying to deflect anything. I think the unique nature of the X1, X100, XPro1 (and Nex, m4/3) are throwing up new ‘problems’ that are no such thing. Fuji are simply catching the flack because they are in the BIG spotlight!

            Lens chatter currently seems to be a component in some non-mirror technology. I see it as roughly analogous to the latter days in film camera technology where each modern step forward brought new issues.

            Early AF systems were poor by modern standards – internal motordrive systems were phenomenally noisy (for years, theatres, quiet sporting events, etc. banned anything but hand-wound cameras) flapping SLR mirrors equally noisy (Hasselblad probably had a good sideline as industrial crow scarers) but technology got better – or users just accepted it as the ‘norm’.

            The model T was crude, but brought mobility to the masses. Rolls Royce was plush, but only brought comfort to fat asses. Innovate or accomodate – usually can’t do both at the same time. One or other viewpoint will prevail – and critics, reviewers and consumers will move on – and find something else to critique.

          • Oh, I take your points, sure, ‘photozopia’… and as I suggest in my addendum, issues that come up for one camera may indeed show up, or have shown up elsewhere. I like it that I can read critical responses here to the Fuji review and learn something important to consider as the Olympus OM-D comes under the microscope. A chatter issue, for example, may not necessarily come up in Steve’s FIRST go-’round; but I will be sure to direct a pointed question to Olympus on this matter in the upcoming week, being for now, an E-PM1 owner (I don’t have the fast Leica-Panasonic 25mm, to check that out).

            But when you take your perspective all the way back to the first Olympus and Panasonic four thirds releases… well, how long SHOULD it take for the mirrorless formats to be considered a moderately mature technology? I don’t honestly get what’s so different here that would earn mirrorless such a tolerant break: a short flange back distance… exposure tracking… What part is so new? Does “live view” somehow compromise either auto-focusing or auto-exposure (I’m asking)? In any case, how many SLRs since the late 1970’s have managed to stop down an aperture in shutter priority auto mode without “rattlesnaking”? My Nikon FE of 1982 had auto exposure lock midway in the shutter release button’s travel — why wouldn’t this feature stop “aperture-hunting” with fast lenses on a mirrorless body? Again, simply asking…

          • @ Fred

            From what I understand Fred is that when SLRs started having ‘auto’ functionality whether it be exposure or focus these were implemented by adding an additional device in the camera, separate to the film that would ultimately capture the image. So when dSLRs were created the metering and focusing systems were also a separate device to the sensor. This can have some benefits in that each component is designed to do just one job and do it well, on mirrorless cameras the sensor has to do the job of all these separate components, to act as a ‘jack of all trades’.

            On dSLR cameras the aperture is usually held wide open to let in as much light as it can for those systems, you then can use the DOF preview button to stop down the lens to the selected aperture (usually with a very dark VF in the process depending on aperture selected). This means that the aperture stays open basically all the time, until you click the shutter in which case the aperture gets stopped down while taking the exposure.

            On mirrorless cameras this is not the case, the sensor in live view (so not using a mechanical shutter) can only ‘read’ the sensor so fast, so in brighter lighting conditions and with faster lenses the sensor is going to be getting too much light – which isn’t a problem for your shot, because it will use the mechanical shutter to reduce exposure time, but during live view it is forced to stop down the lens to compensate for the relatively slow readout from the sensor. Now while the sensor may be capable of higher read speeds, it will cause the sensor to work much harder and get a lot hotter in the process which is why it would behave this way by default (as noted above if you use DOF preview it locks the aperture).

            Now I am sure this isn’t the case for all cameras, there will be variances for each manufacturer, but from what I understand this is the reasoning for the constant adjustment of the aperture blades in some mirrorless cameras, you will probably find it to be more prevalent when using faster aperture lenses.

            Essentially the aperture is being used as a control diaphragm to adjust the amount of light the sensor receives during live view, auto exposure lock has nothing to do with locking the aperture in place, the camera simply locks the settings in that it is going to use when it takes the actual exposure. On a dSLR for a example once you lock the exposure in the camera, the aperture remains wide open until you click the shutter, regardless of what aperture is selected for the shot.

        • BTW, it’s thanks to the [not really] Fuji bashing here that I know about the “chattering” issue extending to the micro four thirds realm as well: Man, am I glad I know to pursue THAT question before I plunk down cash on an OM-D and extend my financial commitment to the well-regarded, but relatively pricey 12mm f.2.0 Olympus wide angle.

          • Hi Fred – re. the questions on lens chatter. I’m not the expert, having neither XPro1 or some of the other cameras it has ‘featured’ on. I doubt – personally – that it is happening as part of the camera’s normal operating sequence.

            I have noticed on my X100 & Nex cameras that similar iris shut-down only occurs in live view/metering mode. I’d suspect that if left on (i.e. operational) whilst walking around, the camera is continually metering in live view, so the lens chatter is produced by power saving modes cutting in. Sounds logical – if anyone has an XPro1/Nex 7 or any other ‘afflicted’ cameras … send them to me and I’ll conduct some long term testing (three months plus should do it)

            Hence my comments on internet critics – and one individual’s experience being passed on as fact by hundreds. I’ve had loads of ‘problems’ over the years – rarely the camera’s fault, usually solved by reading the manual … or logical thought!

          • Thanks very much for these tips. Starting up the hobby again in semi-retirement after an 18 year hiatus means that all the peculiarities and quirks involved with digital photography are going to be an entirely new experience for me in the hands-on sense. Per your wise observation, I’ll try to get myself suitably prepared! Fortunately, my semi-pro/enthusiast 35mm film experience in the past was extensive enough to help me relate to what I read; and I look forward to enjoying the advantages of digital (along with my Contax G acquisitions). Still, I have to admit that the straightforward, no surprises character of my Nikon FE & F2a (and occasional use of Dad’s Leica M3) will probably be missed — Leica M users on this forum can, I expect, relate…

            In any case, This week I plan to run the chatter question by Olympus — who have been pretty candid with me so far — in anticipation of the OM-D release (and, of course, Steve’s review & related commentary). I’m really on the fence, looking ahead, as reliable use of the G-system Zeiss glass via adapter (the wide angles, in particular) on some digital body remains a priority for me.

        • I’m also a working engineer and you don’t make an instrument accurate to 1/1000th of an inch (or cm) and put a dial on it that only reads to an accuracy of 1/10th of an inch (or cm) or the other way around. That is bad engineering.

          So the XP1 is a low light machine yet contrast detection does not work well as a focus mechanism for low light. See a problem there?

    • Or you could find none of this impedes your use of the camera. The chattering isn’t a problem for me and I only get slow focus on the 60mm macro. The 18 and 35 focus fast in decent light. I’m not so worried about the 60mm macro as it seems faster than my 100mm Macro on my A900 (where I could make a cup of tea waiting for it to focus).

      The Xpro1 is about on a par with the NEX 7 but more fun to use. It isn’t a DSLR, but then any CDAF camera struggles with focus in low light.

    • I agree, but, people buy em’. On the other hand, thats why Canon and Nikon are the “biggies” in photography. They put a solid refined product out year after year after decade after decade. Best in the business, and biggest, which is why it seems they killed for everything …not perfect though. But still, agree …maybe thats why Fuji is just a “slug” in the grass of Cankon’s lawn …yet, sometimes if you don’t take care of those slugs they tend to grow and multiply…

    • You don’t need this work around. Update your camera and your lens firmware and the chatter completely disappears. I knew this before I bought my X Pro 1. Gerry in Calgary

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